This time I'm sharing the parts you need to start building the whole design you can see in this publication
You can also see first version of the bike in action in the next video:
With the parts included here you will be able to build the bike chassis, including both front and rear forks, the transmission system but also print some "fake" wheels if you want this bike to just sit on the shell.
The main idea for this Adventure is you will have to print, build and show "Part 1" to have a huge discount for "Part 2", and you will have to do the same with "Part 2" to have access to a great discount for "Part 3". If you don't want to print and show your build, probably these three publications are not for you.
If this design some day is enough welcomed I will generate quite more info about assembly, gearing options and better explaining drawings and so on, but for now, you will have to take it just like kind of a puzzle. Anyway, I list here the parts included in this publication, so you can get a better idea of what you are getting.
You can notice in the next list how many to print of each part, the same than if supports are needed or if it is a part to be printed in TPU.
Chassis Parts - 1 Front Main (needs supports) - 1 Front Bar - 1 Front Fork Holder (needs supports) - 1 Front Body Holder Left(TPU)(needs supports) - 1 Front Body Holder Right (TPU)(needs supports) - 1 Rear Fork Main (needs supports) - 1 Rear Wheel HUB (needs supports) - 2 Rear Side Plate - 1 Rear Base - 1 Rear Shock Holders - 1 Main Axle (3DP or 5x75mm metal) - 1 Main Axle Spacers - 1 Rear Axle (3DP or 5x63mm metal) - 2 Servo Spacer (TPU)
Motor Block Parts - 1 Motor Base Plate - 1 Motor Front Plate - 1 Motor Top Plate - 1 Motor Side Plate - 1 Motor Side Plate Extra Front - 1 Motor Side Plate Extra Rear - 1 Battery Front Box 50x16 or 43x18 optional - 1 Batery Guide / Rear Body Holder
Transmission Parts - 1 14T Mod1 Pinion (options) - 1 46T Mod1 Crown - 1 13T XL Pinion - 1 XL Pinion Extra Lip - 1 30T XL Crown - 1 142XL 71T 5mm belt (Can use customizer) - 1 10mm Belt Divider Top - 1 10mm Belt Divider Base - 1 Belt Tensioner Bearing Holder
Front Fork and Steering Parts - 1 Steering Platform TOP - 1 Steering Platform BOTTOM - 1 Front Wheel Holder Left (needs supports) - 1 Front Wheel Holder Right (needs supports) - 1 Front Wheel HUB (needs supports) - 2 Shock Body Main - 2 Shock Bottom Cup - 2 Shock Top Seal (TPU) - 2 Shock Bottom Seal (TPU) - 2 Shock Piston Head - 2 Shock Shaft (5x85mm metal) - 1 Front Axle (3DP or 5x50mm metal) - 1 Steering ArmLong_STD - 1 Steering Servo Arm - 1 Steering Servo Arm Pivot
MyRCBike Wheels Parts - 1 Front RimLeft - 1 Front RimRight - 1 Front RimRadius - 1 Front Tire 110x27 (TPU) - 1 Rear RimLeft - 1 Rear RimRight - 1 Rear RimRadius - 1 Rear Tire 127x33 (TPU)
Next are the sourced parts you could need for the whole design:
Complete list of hardware needed
HARDWARE - 15 5x10x4 Bearings - 1 5x73-75mm aluminum/steel shaft (Main Axle) - 1 5x63-65mm aluminum/steel (Rear Axle) - 1 5x50-52mm aluminum/steel (Front Axle) - 2 5x85mm aluminum/steel (Front Shock Axles) - 1 1/10 RC car on-road shock 58-60mm hole to hole - 2 10x32 springs with 15mm compression - 1 Pen Spring or similar, minimum 3mm inner diameter and aprox 20mm long - 1 140XL Timing Belt 70Teeth 5mm wide(buy 10mm wide and cut it) - 1 GRPtyres GRX12-M3 Front Wheel - 1 GRPtyres GRX22-M3 Rear Wheel - 1 Shock Oil, if you think you will need it - 1 400mm Velcro Strap - 1 Medium Density CyanoCrylate (loctite)
ELECTRONICS - 1 3650 Motor and ESC (40A-80A 2S lipo, 2000-4000kV) - 1 Standard Servo from 5Kg torque - 1 Radio and reciever 2 Channels - 1 140x50x16mm max battery size, aprox 4000mah or smaller than 140x42x18mm alternative - 1 Battery Charger/Balancer - 1 Double-sided tape
SCREWS - 4 M3x8 Counter-Sunk - 2 M3x12 Counter-Sunk - 14 M3x16 Counter-Sunk - 4 M3x20 Counter-Sunk - 2 M5x50 Shocket Head - 4 M3x40 Shocket Head - 1 M3x30 Shocket Head - 10 M3x8 Shocket Head - 13 M3x12 Shocket Head - 15 M3x16 Shocket Head - 5 M4x6 screw GRUB - 1 M3x6 screw GRUB - 8 M2x4 Little Screws
I hope with this and your extra effort we can take this design to the next level, probably something almost professional but a lot cheaper than the conventional hobby, with unlimited spares just some clicks away ;)
Thank you for reading and welcome to this new MyRCBike Adventure! will you reach the next level?
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In terms of geometry, the parts that compose the bike can be printed in FDM printers with a minimum of 200x200x200mm printing volume.
Of course, most of the parts of the chassis must be printed in a rigid material, like PLA, ABS or PetG. If you think your motor is going to get hot, maybe you must choose a rigid mat which supports higher temps than PLA.
But the key of this design is really the rest of the parts, the fairing, which practically wrap completely the chassis, protecting it from external collisions, hits or bounces. You could think about printing these parts in PetG (and I did), as it better deforms in some cases practically recovering initial position, but those parts has been really designed to be printed in TPU to help the bike survive various kinds of hits. Its less flexibility when thick and its great flexibility when thin allows those elements of the body to bend in collisions or simply when manipulating to put on or out some parts. They create a kind of "airbag" around the bike which absorbs with deformation most of the energy of collisions.
In my first driving test, I did not even know if the bike would steer... I could finally experiment with some driving errors making the bike to hit the ground with many of the body parts. Thanks to TPU body, even without the pilot, none of the parts of the bike were damaged, and I could even continue playing after some collisions, but other times I had to fix something simple like un-blocking part of the body with the direction.
If some of the TPU parts are too big for your printer you can probably slice them in 2 parts. If you print the sliced surface over the bed, you will probably be able to glue those 2 parts together quite easy.
Some of the parts of the body already have the right thickness, which would be 1.6mm, four perimeters in total of 0.4mm each. For those parts with a smaller thickness when in correct printing position, I would use "Horizontal Expansion" or similar feature of your slicing software to reach that 1.6mm of total wall thickness. I tested the flexibility of the body parts with this wall thickness and they fit correctly and flex what is needed to allow mounting them over the chassis. As I said, these body parts have been designed to be printed in TPU and then you could need that flexibility.